The color of rusty tin can...

Today's hike was a variation of a hike we did in June.  The group decided on a Saturday hike as the weather forecast was for rain and cooler temperatures on Sunday. The van picked us up at 6:30 am for a ride to the ski center in Brezovica.  We would once again hike from the ski center to Gjoli (Lake of the Meadow), but this time we would not return back to the ski center, but instead hike to the other side of Ljuboten.

It was a glorious day for hike with great temperatures and clear blue skies.  As we started the hike the air was fresh and cool.  It warmed as the day wore on, but it was never too hot.  This was a less aggressive hike as we did not go to the peaks, but instead skirted around the high peaks while hiking over some low peaks and along ridges between peaks.  The hike out of the ski area was a bit steep, but this was during the coolest part of the day.  After that, it was all pretty easy until we hit the challenging rocky gravel trails, which were harder to negotiate on the northeast side of Ljuboten.

We are a small group of just nine hikers today

As we hiked toward the lake there was a noticeable difference in our surroundings from our previous June hike.  While there were still a few blueberries to be found, their season is over.  Fall colors were starting to take over, especially at higher elevation.  The rusty, tin can color of the blueberry bushes mixed with golden yellow and muted green of plants readying for winter, was an amazing color palette against the bright blue skies.  The air was so clear that we could see north to Prishtina and beyond.  We could see to the far reaches Kosovo -- to Albania, Montenegro, North Macedonia, and Serbia.

Rusty-tin can colored blueberry painted the sides of the peaks

The trail was along the border of Kosovo and North Macedonia,  At one point, as we took a much needed break, Ekrem (one of our group's leaders) told Thom he was sitting in Kosovo and I was sitting in North Macedonia.  Fortunately there is no border control on the peaks of the mountains, although Ekrem joked about needing our passports.  One member of our group (Ismail), said it was a clandestine border like the mountain borders between the US and Mexico.  He was just joking, as there is no problem crossing borders here.  But during the war, there were many that cross from Kosovo to North Macedonia through the mountains.  Ekrem told us that some attempted escape during the winter and lost their lives in passage.

As we skirted around the base of Ljuboten, its easy to see what a monster of a peak it is.  It is not the highest peak by any means in Kosovo, but it is the highest of the surrounding peaks.  Its steep, rocky face is a definite challenge for hikers.  

Our hike ended in the meadow area at the road that leads to and from a collection of small villas in the foothills of Ljuboten.  There we waited for the hired four-wheel drive vehicles that took us out on the rugged dirt and gravel road, back to the paved roads, and on to Kaçanik.

As always, I can't emphasize how welcoming and protective the hiking group is.  They watch out for everyone.  At one pointed I slipped and fell on a large, glassy faced boulder that crossed the path and started sliding off the trail.  Fortunately, I grabbed the edge of the boulder and stopped my slide.  Fatmir, who was behind, scrambled to help me as well.  He jumped so fast to my aid, I was worried he would slide off the trail.  Fortunately, neither one of us went tumbling off the trail and I only ended with a scrape and bruise to my arm and leg.

The only bad news of the day, was that the city had shut the water supply off to fix a problem with a leak (I think).  It was supposed to be fixed by 6 pm which was about the time we got back.  But I as of the time I am writing this, on Sunday morning, we still do not have water.  We do keep a supply of water in plastic bottles and I was able to heat enough water to wash off the mountain dust and clean my scrapes, but I am still waiting for a good shower.

The Best Photos of the Day (Maybe)

We are greeted by a half a dozen dogs at the ski center

The view as we started with the sun on the eastern peaks

Amazing views as we leave the ski center

The ski center still in shadows as the sun advances

The waterfall is just a trickle after a hot, dry summer

Trails are well-marked with blazes along the way

Every view is amazing

Shadows and sun play across the fall foliage landscape

Gjoli and Ljuboten in the background

Heading toward a short break

Fun photos above the lake

Gold and rust of the fall foliage

Gjoli and the surrounding hillside a palette of fall colors

Another view of Gjoli

The center back peak has the cross and overlooks Skopje

The view of Gjoli as we head towards Ljuboten

Ljubotin in the distance

Another view of the surrounding peaks

At our lunch spot, a plaque recognizing those who used this trail to escape

We are visited by a herd of sheep, during our lunch

They are drinking water from an old bathtub that catches water rom the spring

Their shepherd stops to chat

There are a few rams among the herd

We head out off the trail past the grazing sheep

A poisonous mushroom growing in the meadow

A sign telling people not to litter, the sign is there, but not obeyed

Sister City...

The municipality of Kaçanik has a sister city agreement with the municipality of Moosseedorf, Switzerland.  The relationship is in part due to Remzi having lived in Switzerland for 40 years.  Four representatives from Switzerland were visiting Kaçanik this week.  Gjethi did a presentation for the group at the Cultural House and Thom and I were invited to be at the presentation.   The presentation was in the House of Hope in the lowest level of the Cultural House.  The House of Hope provides language and other classes for people of all ages.  The group has remodeled the area and it was really quite nice.  

Sister city of Moosseedorf near Bern, Switzerland

The Group Photo at the Cultural House - House of Hope

Valon presenting to the group while Sami translate

After the presentation, we were invited to a special evening event and dinner with the group.  The group had a tour of the vocational school first, so we went to have coffee with Valon while we waited.  I didn't know for sure what was going on for the evening, but as is so often the case I was pleasantly surprised.

We had coffee at the Balkan Petrol somewhere between Kaçanik and Ferizaj.  Yes, it is a gas station, but as is often the case, the gas stations here have restaurants / bars / cafes.  These establishments frequently have the best coffee around.

After coffee, we headed back to the Cultural Center where we were treated to local musicians and dancers performing traditional music and dances.  There is a theater in the Cultural Center and it was our first time to see a performance there.  It was a really nice show.

Then we headed to the Restaurant Lipenci for dinner with the Swiss visitors, the guys from Gjethi, Fatima from Handikos, and several people from the municipality.  It was a wonderful night of interesting conversation with Nora (a young lady originally from Kaçanik).  Nora lives in Prishtina now but does work for the municipality.  She got her masters in Vienna and speaks English, Albanian, and German.  She often spoke all three languages during dinner as there was no common language among us.  Dinner went on until after 10 pm with lively conversations enjoyed by all.

Photos of the traditional dance and music

Sometimes I think I haven't left Wisconsin...

Monday, as I walked into the schoolyard, I saw a group of students from Tuesday's class.  I said good morning to the group of girls and noticed something very familiar.  One of the girls was wearing a Wisconsin sweatshirt.  I almost didn't notice at first as I am so used to seeing the familiar Wisconsin red and white, but then I remembered that I was in Kaçanik, Kosovo, and not Wisconsin.  These aren't that common here.

A Wisonsin Sweatshirt in Kosovo

Yesterday, was a Gjethi event entitled "Dita Pa Makina" or "A day without cars".  This annual event is  bike ride on a route from Kaçanik to the Restaurant Lepenci about 10 km and then back.  A police escort, food, and drinks were provided by Gjethi (with funding from KEP).  In previous years, there were around 100 bikers.  We had a beautiful day for a ride, but there were only around 25 riders.  They all seemed to have a good time and I enjoyed helping to collect trash after their snacks.

The meeting point for the start of the bike ride; it was a beautiful blue sky day

The pre-bike photo

The bike ride begins

Police escort leading the way

Bikers on the main street in Kaçanik

Banana and water break

Photos of Ljuboten while we wait for the bikers

Stops signs in Kosovo look very familiar

We were not able to do the hike with the hiking group this week, as both activities were on Sunday.  We got a couple of good walks in around Kaçanik over the weekend and are enjoying the beautiful fall weather here in Kosovo.   We have also had some rain over the last few weeks and the water has not gone out since it started raining.  This is another advantage of fall weather.

Daisy along the river in Kaçanik

A blue sky day taken from our balcony

Our pet praying mantis which lives on the balcony

Looks like goose for dinner

A couple of students in our dismal classroom

The blackboards that are hard to write on and hard for students to read

The school building with vocational labs for plumbing, electricians, etc.

The hallway by the teacher's lounge

The second building where main subjects such as math, English, and Albanian are taught

The soccer hall and cafe across from the school; teacher's parking area

Here I am, talking with some of our students