Monday, August 25, 2025

One Week until School Starts...

School will start a week from today, and it will likely be the last time I prepare myself for the start of a school year.  I have had a fairly relaxing last two weeks of summer.  Each day, I take a couple of walks around Kaçanik.  I have met up for coffee several times with people I know.  I am cleaning the apartment and starting to weed through the things I have accumulated that I will no longer need.  I have restarted language lessons after taking a four-week break.  I am preparing for the final language test, which I will take in December.  We did a practice at my last lesson, and I did better than I thought I would.

I have also been working on making a retro poncho from crocheted squares.  I needed 64 squares, and they are now complete.  I only need to crochet them together and then decide how I want to edge the poncho.  I have already decided that I do not want fringe.

I have 7 months of service remaining, so I am enjoying the views of the mountains, the sunny days, and the crisp mornings.  There is already a fall feeling in the morning air.  When you live in a valley, the darkness arrives sooner, and it is noticeable.   I am glad that the diaspora that visit during the summer are heading home, and there are fewer problems with the water in the evenings.  Right now, the water goes off around 10:30 pm and comes back on around 6:30 am.  It is also calmer and quieter when they leave.

One day, I was out walking and saw 4 or 5 students from school.  They also greet me with a smile, and most use English greetings.

Saturday, I took a long walk up the hill on the opposite side of Kaçanik in the morning.  It was a beautiful day, so I took quite a few photos. Danny walked into Kaçanik in the afternoon and went to the Riverside and sat by the river and watched the various birds (including a bright blue kingfisher). On Sunday, I took a walk to Koveçec and met with Danny at Trofta (The Trout Restaurant), which also sits by the river. 

There I saw a student I met at the gymnaz.  She graduated this past school year, and she is going to nursing school in Ferizaj.  I was glad to hear of her plans.  

Today, it was really comfortable in the apartment, so I decide to do some baking.  I made zucchini muffins last week and apricot muffins today.  I am freezing them for breakfast when school starts.  I made seeded crackers and an Italian cornbread loaf.

Photos from the Past Two Weeks

This is one of my favorite views of Ljuboten in Kaçanik

Front and back of my ponch laid out and ready to crochet together

Italian Cornbread

Apricot muffins, Italian cornbread, and seeded crackers

Views as I walked along the Nerodimi River

Cattails from Sunday's walk to Koveçec

UÇK Monument in Koveçec

Walking over the bridge near Trofta

Driver's Ed Practice Area

A few cows along the way

Smoke from a backyard brush and garbage fire

A grave marker in the nearby cemetary (Ljuboten in the background)

Wood is being gathered and cut to be ready for the winter

Wood pile -- wood is often cut illegally from the Shar Mountains

There are still a few trumpet vine flowers


Two goats in a yard

A diaspora house closed up as the end of the summer nears

Bags of garbage in the cow pasture

Another house closed up.

A productive garden of tomatoes and peppers

Rual Kosovo -- the mountains, rustic fences, and mosques

More cows in the field

Bike and walking paths in Ferizaj

A dog cooling off in the stinky river


Yet another beautiful view from my balcony




Friday, August 15, 2025

Returning to Kosovo -- the Ups and the Downs...

I enjoyed the last three days of my stay with my niece and family in the U.S. and didn't check the news.  On Thursday, July 7, when I arrived at the Cincinnati Airport, I had no idea about the Wednesday tech glitch with United Airlines.  My flight to Chicago was delayed by an hour, which wasn't too bad except that I had to go from a domestic terminal to the international terminal.  This is hard to do in 40 minutes, and I arrived at my gate while my plane was still parked at the gate, but the door had been closed (So close, but no go).  

I was rebooked through Istanbul with a 4-hour wait.  I was thankful to spend part of the time on a video call with my niece and the two girls.  They were having a great time entertaining me.  I made it to Prishtina on Friday evening, too late to catch a bus back to Kaçanik.  Fortunately, there is a Peace Corps Response volunteer (Birgid) with an apartment in Prishtina.  So I made my way to her place for the night.

It was great spending the evening with another volunteer, Matt, and meeting a young lady (Megan) from Indiana who is doing an internship with "Save the Children" for the summer.  Birgid is returning to the US in two weeks, and we wanted to hike back to the bear sanctuary before she leaves.  I wanted to stay and hike on Sunday, but I didn't have my hiking shoes, and I wanted to check my plants at my apartment.  So I got up early and left for Kaçanik.  I unpacked my stuff, watered my plants (the plants looked good thanks to Danny), made some brownies, and repacked.  I caught the 4 pm bus and traveled back to Prishtina for two more nights at her apartment.

The new Kaçanik sign at the entrance park -- the park is newly renovated

Birgid had lentil burgers ready when I arrived and I enjoyed the evening visiting with Matt and Megan.  Matt was volunteering on a mural project for the weekend and was staying with Birgid.  Megan was between apartments and staying with Birgid until she could get into a new apartment. It was a great way to transition back to life in Kosovo. 

Sunday, Birgid, Megan, and I walked 18 miles from the apartment through Germia Park to the bear sanctuary.  It was a warm day, but cooler hiking among the trees.  The Bear Sanctuary is a rescue facility.  These bears were mostly rescue from being on display at various restaurants or small zoos in Kosovo.  Bears were kept in cages on display until they were rescued.  We were fortunate to see quite a few of the 18 bears out and about on our walk around the zoo.





On Monday, it was time to head to Kaçanik.  Before I did, I was able to open up the sub-account for the grant, which is fully funded.  I still hope the money will be in the account before the summer ends.  The account had to be set up in Prishtina, so all in all it was a great three days in Prishtina.  

After I set up the account, I headed to the bus station.  As I neared the station, a guy started walking beside me and he started talking to me in English. I am actually used to people coming up and talking to me in English.  I think I have gotten used to people coming up and talking to me, so I didn't think much about it at first.  However, this guy started saying that he wanted to help carry my backpack, because it was a hot day and it looked heavy.  I told him I didn't need help, but he kept walking with me, and I one point tried to lift my backpack.  My backpack has the front clip and I held on tight.  He said he just wanted to help.  I let him know that I didn't need his help, but he continued on to the bus station.  I headed to my bus and got on and he followed me on.  He sat down next to me and kept talking.  I told him that I thought he was a stalker and that he should get off the bus.  Eventually, he asked me for 5 euros and I told him no way.  The buses have a person who collects the bus fee, and he came up and the guy did have bus fare, so they kicked him off, and I was very thankful.  A lady seated behind me moved to the seat after he left, and I had a comfortable ride to Ferizaj and then on to Kaçanik.  

I was late paying bills, so I went to the electric office to pay the electric bill on Monday after I got back.  When I got there, the office was no longer there.  I checked with Teuta (the landlord's sister) and found out I can pay the bill at the post office.  They were nicer at the post office and extremely helpful.  

Tuesday was a nice, sunny day, and it wasn't too hot.  I got the remaining bills paid and had coffee with Teuta.  In the evening, I had drinks with Danny.  It was nice to catch up.  At the end of the day, I felt like I accomplished a lot.  Wednesday, I started sorting through the clothes and weeding out things I won't need for the school year.  Birgid gave me some clothes that she is not taking with her.  It is nice to have some new outfits for the school year.  Thursday, I had coffee with Mirvete and it was so nice to see her and talk again.  Thursday was another good day.

But Friday was really not so good.  Part of summer here is a lack of water in the evenings.  On Friday, the water was off the entire day.  I still don't know why yet.  Fortunately, the spring is a short walk, and I refilled the empty two-liter bottles in the afternoon.  Along with the lack of water, there are wildfires in North Macedonia.  Today, the smoke from the fires is collected in Kaçanik.  It was so bad this evening, I had to close the windows, and I don't have air conditioning.   I am looking forward to our PC meet-up in Ferizaj tomorrow.

A nice view of the Prishtina Library




Monday, August 4, 2025

An Extended Stay...

On July 17th, Thom  and I left Kosovo for a visit to the U.S.  For me, it was to be an 11-day visit primarily visiting my niece's family in Independence, Kentucky with a side trip back to the Madison area for a couple days and a chance to see my daughter Kim and her partner's new house.  

As we left the airport in Cincinnati and arrived at my niece’s neighborhood, it is hard not to make some comparisons.  The big one is that there is not trash laying all over the place.  Even a long the highway, there was only a rare piece of trash. In Kosovo, trash is everywhere.  The other big comparison is there are far fewer smokers around and smokers don't smoke indoors in public places.  These are two things I will not miss about Kosovo.

Our visit in Independence was spent with days at the playground, Cincinnati Zoo, church, and watching the girls play in the blow up swimming pool, which was all enjoyable.  If you haven’t been to the Cincinnati Zoo and you have the chance, you should go, as it is one of the best zoos I have ever been to.  They continue to update all the exhibits, but one of the best parts of the zoo is their detail to landscaping and the beautiful vegetation that fills the pathways between displays.  My niece has a membeship at the zoo, so we go every time we visit.  We always feel comfortable staying with my niece, Megan, and her husband, Josiah. The girls, Rori (6) and Maggie (3) consider us their grandparents.

Along with hanging out with Megan and her family, we had a chance to visit with one of my second cousins.  I haven’t talked with her in a long time and it was good to catch up.  Several weeks ago, her 97-year old mother died.  Her mother was my grandmother's youngest sister…with her passing it is a shift as my second cousin is now the matriarch of the family.

On Thursday of that week my niece, her girls, Thom, and I made the exhausting 8 hour trip to Oregon, Wisconsin (a suburb of Madison, Wisconsin).  This is where my daughter’s house is located.  Megan, the girls, and I stayed in a nearby hotel as my daughter and her partner are still working on their second bathroom and didn’t have room for all of us.  Thom stayed with our daughter.  

When we arrived, Kim had a treasure hunt for the girls around the house.  Their house has a really nice location in the country, but still close enough to the quaint community of Oregon.  They have done a lot of work on the house since they bought it last December and it looks really nice..  Their back yard is full of black raspberry bushes and I look forward to helping her pick them next summer.

On Friday, we did a true south-central Wisconsin day.  We packed up a picnic lunch and headed to our daughter’s house and then, we took off through the rolling green farmland to the Merrimac Ferry to cross the Wisconsin River.  The Merrimac Ferry is a free ferry which is an extension of Highway 113, offering an alternative to the bridge located in Sauk Prairie.  It is open from March to November, but closes during the winter months when there can be ice on the river.  The ferry ride is only 7 minutes and the ferry holds 15 cars.  The girls enjoyed the ferry ride.

Next we headed for a hike in Parfrey’s Glen.  Parfrey’s Glen is the first State Natural Area in Wisconsin.  The trail runs along the river and eventually ends near a waterfall where you have to walk in the small creek to make it to the pool of water at the end of the waterfall.  For two girls, ages 3 and 6, this was a definite highlight.

Next it was on to Devil’s Lake for a picnic and  a swim in the lake.  Devil’s Lake is the state’s most popular park with a beautiful lake carved by ancient glaciers surrounded by forest and high cliffs.  The girls loved the beach as well.  After swimming for the afternoon, we headed back to the ferry and grabbed Chocolate Shoppe ice cream from the ice cream shop by the ferry entrance.  Chocolate Shoppe is a local to Wisconsin premium ice cream and they have the best ever dairy-free ice creams. (Although they did not have my favorite, which is Raspberry Nebula).  

Saturday dawned cloudy, humid and rainy.  We planned to take the girls to the hotel swimming pool in the morning, but it was closed for cleaning due to some messy guests.  We instead took the girls to PlayNWisconsin.  This is a company in Middleton which makes outdoor play structures.  They have an indoor display room which they open from 10 am to 2 pm where you can bring your kids to play on the structures.  This was also a big hit.  

This was my first trip back to Middleton since leaving Wisconsin in February of 2024.  It was weird.  Our house is rented out, so I didn’t even go by the house.  The whole day was a little gloomy, but we did have an enjoyable meal at the Albanian restaurant in Middleton.  The girls had a rest and an afternoon swim and then we headed to Kim’s to build a fire in the fire pit.

On Sunday, we drove back to Independence without Thom, who is staying in the Madison area for a while.  The girls did well on both long drives.  On the way there, we included two nice stops at a park and a rest area with a playground.  On the way back, the girls were sufficiently worn and no long stop was needed.

After returning to Independence, I started to pack and prepare myself for the trip back to Kosovo.  My visit seemed to fly by and it was hard to think about leaving in two days.  I spent the day with the 6-year old on Monday, while my niece and her husband worked. The 3-year old went to day care.  

During the day, however; my niece found out that her dad (my older brother) was back in the hospital.  My brother was diagnosed with stage 4 lung cancer last winter.  From her conversation with his partner, she felt that things were not looking good.  She and I took an evening walk and he called while we were walking.  He told her that he was back at home and he sounded pretty good. The next morning,  we found out that he did not make it through the night.  This was Tuesday, July 29th and I was to leave for Kosovo in the afternoon.

Here, I need to interject a little background.  My brother and I  have not seen each other since he left Megan when she was three to be raised by my parents.  Megan did not have a relationship with her father until about 9 years ago when she located him and reconnected.  She met up with him in Tennessee (where my brother was living at the time) when she was there for a wedding. She welcomed his phone calls during this time and tried to establish a relationship, however; even though he was invited to come and meet his grandkids, he chose not to do so.  I commend Megan on allowing my brother into her life on his terms.  The past week has been much harder for her than me.  I think it is particularly hard, because she now knows that he will never meet her family or be a larger part of her life.

That being said, I am my brother's oldest sibling and my parents are both gone, so I did take care of the necessary arrangements with the funeral home.  My brother had moved to Arkansas and had a good circle of friends there.  We did not have a funeral service.  His friend in Arkansas will spread his ashes at a lake, which was one of his favorite spots.

The Peace Corps staff in Kosovo have been great and Peace Corps allowed me to extend my stay in Independence. I have an additional 11 days.  As I write this, I have 3 ½ days left here and do feel it is time for me to return.  There are things I want to complete and I have only 8 ½ months left of service.  My grant to establish the English language lab has been fully funded and I will have some things to do for it before school starts in September.

The weather over the last few days has been spectacular.  It has cooled down and the humidity is much less.  When we first arrived, it felt like 100% humidity levels and the temperatures were in the high 80s to 90s.  Kacanik was really dry and so adjusting to the high humidity levels was a bit of a challenge.  One night, as a storm front passed through northern Kentucky, the tornado sirens went off and then all of our phones started going off.  If you choose to have the early warning app on your phone, it will signal you when there is a severe storm in the area.  The girls were just getting settled  in for bed and we grabbed them and headed to the basement.  Their basement is finished and we all gathered on the couch until the all clear alert sounded.  There was a tornado touch down in Independence, but fortunately it was not close to us.

Photos from US Visit

Rori on the steel drum and Maggie performing

Playing hide n seek with Maggie, she's easy to find as she can't stop talking


Maggie and the cheetah from Viva Fresh in Kosovo

At the manatee exhibit

Rori tries to coax a swallowtail into her finger


Maggie is dancing, Rori is posing 

A break at Lake of the Woods on our way to Wisconsin





Kim and Maggie at Parfrey's Glen








Fire pit at Kim's 

A sandhill crane standing on a car in the hotel parking lot

On a break on as we travel back to Independence 

A beautiful evening sunset 

After playing many games of dominoes with Rori

Field day with Maggie at day care


A great day to fly a kite 



















The Last Post for Peace Corps Kosovo...

We made it home on Monday evening, and since then, there are moments when I find it hard to believe I have been gone for two years.  Most th...