Wednesday, March 11, 2026

From the Outside Looking in...

This morning I woke to a sunny, springlike day.  The morning sun shining into the apartment warmed it. With the warm sun on the balcony, I was able to clean up the balcony and salvage a few plants that survived the winter.  I made a compost bin the first summer, and the compost was perfect for topping off the planters on the balcony.  Things are starting to green a bit, and barring any real cold weather, I should have some green plants before I leave. 

From the balcony on a sunny spring morning

The willows are leafing out in front of the lower elementary building

I had a wonderful morning walk after working on the balcony.  It is jacket weather when the sun is out.  It does cool down in the evening, but it has not been dropping below freezing.  There was a clear view of Ljuboten, and the snow melt there is not visible yet, but it won't be long.

I met some students from Bob Elementary on my way home from school yesterday.  I had met some of them before at the end of last school year.  The one girl asked me if I remembered her, and I did.  She has excellent English, and I remember talking with her.  One of the boys asked me if I was fasting, and she said that he shouldn't ask me that.  She told me it didn't matter whether I was Muslim or not, because we should accept all religions.  I think she is a really smart and tolerant young woman.  This is not always the case among the students I teach.  I enjoyed walking with her until we reached her apartment building, which was across from the bus station.

We are now over halfway through Ramadan, and it is a struggle at school.  Even the morning classes are sluggish.  As an outsider to Ramadan, it still seems counterproductive to spend a month fasting during the day, and then eating huge meals as soon as the sun sets.  Students are staying up late to eat before sleeping, and then getting up at around 4:30 am to eat before dawn. The morning kids are tired and late to school.  The afternoon students just want to leave early for Iftar.  The 5th-hour classes have been shortened to provide a 25-minute break for Iftar.  Both the 4th- and 5th-hour afternoon classes are unproductive.  In the afternoon, students are more unruly and often fight with each other.  They seemed to forget that Ramadan is about getting back to the root of their religion, being nice to others, cleansing themselves, and helping others.  This I learned during last Ramadan from some of my students.

But I do see the other side of Ramadan.  Yesterday, I went for a walk along the river at Iftar.  It is a quiet time to walk, as most people are at home or at a restaurant to enjoy the Iftar meal to break their fast.  But on a nice evening, there is an alternative for some young people.   As I walked the path along the river, I saw groups of students sitting on the benches.  They were breaking fast together.  I saw many students that I knew and stopped to talk with them along the way.  I was offered pizza by a student, but I declined.  I continued to walk, talking with students along the way.  This is the upside of Ramadan.  They are all fasting together.  It is a shared commitment, and Iftar is a celebration of having made it through another day of fasting.  The final celebration will be on Bajram after the month of fasting is done.  I see all this happen, but I am not a part of it.  Even if I did fast, I would not feel the connection that they feel.  So I continue to watch from the outside.  I will celebrate the end of Ramadan, however, as things will hopefully to return to normal.


Monday, March 9, 2026

End of Service Date -- April 15th...

I know the date that I will ring the bell that signifies the end of my service here.  I will ring the bell on April 15th.  Thom and I will take a short trip to the coast of Montenegro, before flying out of Tirana, Albania, to Chicago on April 20th.

Since January, I have been busy at school helping the new English teacher to use the technology in the English lab and helping her as she adjusts to teaching at our school.  Unfortunately, it is Ramadan, and students are often tired and hungry.  They are less interested in school, and class participation (especially the second shift) is at an all-time low.  I have four more weeks left of teaching, two of which will be before Ramadan ends.  I wish there were a better ending to my two years of service here.

The hiking group has not been doing their weekly hikes because of Ramadan.  Two Sundays ago, we hiked with the guys from Gjethi.  Sami and Valon's wives also came.  We did a local hike that had the most amazing views of snow-covered Ljuboten.  It was a beautiful spring-like day with sunny blue skies.  We hiked to a monument with some picnic tables where we had a fire to roast sausages.  Danny came as well, and we had a wonderful time.

View of Ljuboten at the beginning of the hike

I love it when the clouds make Ljuboten look like it,s floating

Rustic fences, red roofs, and Ljuboten

Building a fire with Ljuboten in the background

Primroses in bloom along the trail

On Saturday, I led the Access Leadership group in a discussion on technology topics.  This was an amazing group of kids, and the activity went really well.  There were four other volunteers there.  Afterwards, we went to our new favorite restaurant in Ferizaj.  It is an Italian restaurant called L'Olive.  It was recommended by the Peace Corps doctor, and the upscale Italian food is really good and a welcome change from most restaurants in Kosovo.

Last Tuesday, we went to the cultural house for a display of architectural models of buildings in Kaçanik.  The models were made by students in the architecture program at the university in Ferizaj.  A guy we met on a hike was responsible for the display, and many members of the hiking group were there.  The guy also gave us a book that has many of the buildings in Kaçanik.  It is a book that will remind us of the many buildings we are so familiar with.

Model of the House of Culture in Kaçanik

At the architectural display in the House of Culture

I had coffee with Danny today.  We were talking about the new volunteers, and how we helped train them last year, and now his group will be training the new volunteers.  Sometimes, it feels like a long time since my training.  But sometimes, it feels like it was just yesterday that I was going through training.  Thirty-nine new volunteers landed in Kosoo a week ago.  That doubles our numbers.  We also have five response volunteers, and I am told there will be more.  The Peace Corps is regaining the level of volunteers that were present before COVID.  It will be weird to leave, but I am ready to be home.

This was a barren rose branch that a student brought.  It is now growing new leaves.


The mosque at dusk

The carnival rides are back in session

Handing out certificates for the WriteOn Competition at the upper elementary with Teuta

First place winner for 7th grade

First place winner for 9th grade

Second place 7th grade winner




The Last Post for Peace Corps Kosovo...

We made it home on Monday evening, and since then, there are moments when I find it hard to believe I have been gone for two years.  Most th...