Monday, March 4, 2024

Making flia -- a national dish of Kosovo...


Sunday, March 3, 2024

Today was sunny and beautiful plus I got to sleep in (8:00 am is sleeping in).  The temperatures were in the low 60s.  Ganimete had a large breakfast/brunch.  I had an egg with cucumbers and tomatoes.  Ganimete served it with ajvar which is a Serbian dish most often made with eggplant and peppers.  Ganimete makes hers with several types of peppers and I believe tomatoes.  It is very good.  Most meals are accompanied by peppers and/or tomato sauces.  Thom had breaded calf and sausage.  She serves huge chunks of bread with every meal.  We have heard that some host families do not use utensils, but instead use bread to sop up juices and their figures to eat the food.  Some of KOS 09 have said their meals are family style with every eating from the same serving bowls.

After breakfast, we met our group at 11:00 am at the Sip Bar Coffee Shop and Restaurant.  KOS 09 is great and very supportive.  We studied outside in the beautiful weather.  We only bought coffee and tea, but sat there for hours.  The Sip manager sent us out a free round of drinks and most people in our group had hot chocolate.  It looked so good.  The hot chocolate is very thick and comes with whipped cream on top.  Yesterday, when we had lunch, we were also served free tea or coffee at the end of the meal.  Everyone is really nice to us.

After sitting for a while, some of our group went to another restaurant for lunch.  About half of us, had big breakfasts and are not having lunch (Thom and me included).  We worked together on flashcards and talked about how little progress we thought we had made.  Later, the lunch goers came back and we took a walk along the small river.  This is closer to our house, so eventually we made our way home before flia time at 4 pm.  We met two boys:  Xhon (John) and Rion on our way back.  They live on the same street as we do.  Xhon was 13 years old a spoke English well.  We talked a bit as we walked back. The kids talk to us a lot and always in English.  They enjoy using their English and are willing to teach and correct our Albanian. It seems that Kamenice often has Peace Corps Trainees and the kids know who we are.  People here are very welcoming and helpful.  The kids are especially wonderful and friendly.  They always seem to want to use their English with us.

A house in the area
House as we walk along the river / stream
The stream looks as if it is low
The mosque from across the river
Another view of the river

The sign on this door says "Welcome Home" in English


When I got back, Ganimete and I went to the outside kitchen to make the flia.  The kitchen is a small room with a wood oven.  There is a small sink, a refrigerator, a cabinet for storing flour, and table to make the flia.  To make the flia batter, Ganimete filled a bowl about half full of water and sprinkle salt into the water (she didn't really measure it).  She then added 4 large scoops of flour.  She used a drill fitted with a special tool to mix the batter.  After making the batter, she made a mixture of yogurt, cream, and oil which is brush between the thin layers of heated dough.  

The pan or saç; Ganimete is getting the fire ready
The kitchen
The table


Making the flour
The flour is in a large bin
The mixer looks like drill with a mixing tool on the end
The salt bin
Mixing in more flour
Yogurt, oil, and cream

Ganimete started the fire in the oven with sticks and cardboard paper.  She used thin pieces of wood in the fire.  While the oven is getting warm, she started  making the first layer of the flia in the saç.  

To prepare the pan, she poured a little bit of cream and oil on the pan and spread it to coat the entire bottom of the pan. Then Ganimete used a spoon to create a pattern of spoke-like strips of batter starting at the edge going to about 10 cm (5 inches) from the center. Once the of batter went all around the pan, she filled in the center with three stripes of batter.  There are spaces between the batter after the first layers is poured.   She then puts it in to the oven to bake until the top is brown and bubbly.  Ganimete watched the saç and turns it often until all sides are bubbling and starting to brown.  She then pulled it out with her hooked tool and hot pads to bring it to the table to start the next layer. 

The batter, yogurt mixture, pan; ready to start

I do a few and but I am not quite right
This is layer one -- ready for the oven
Ganimete keeps the fire going while the first layer cooks

She scooped two large spoonsful of the yogurt, cream, and oil mixture on to the layer of baked batter and then she spread it over the entire surface.  The next layer of batter is poured in strips by spoon filling in the gaps left by the previous layer.  And then it is back in the oven to start the baking process again.  Each layer takes several minutes to cook and as the oven gets hotter, it takes less time to cook a layer.  The process of cooking, spreading the yogurt mixture. and then pouring the batter in spokes between previous layer is repeated 45 more times for a total of about 47 layers.  The finished flia will fill the whole pan, which is about 5 cm (2 inches) deep.   The last baking is a little longer and during the final few minutes a saq (special lid) is put over top of the saç while it is still in the oven.  After the lid is removed, the flia is removed from the oven.  Ganimete using a special tool to lift an edge of the flia to check that it is cooked through.  At this point, the flia is a beautiful golden brown with spoke design giving it a unique design. 

The small refrigerator
Sunflower oil
Flia in the oven 10 to 12 layers to go


Flia is almost done; 1 layer to go

Final layer
The flia is cooking under the lid

Finished flia
Flia Brenda -- with no yogurt or cream

Flia going fast (with pickled peppers, pepper and tomato sauces)

Flia was the star of the dinner tonight.  It was served with a cabbage salad, pepper and tomato sauces, and pickled peppers.  It is eaten with your fingers and dipped in sauces.

After dinner, there is always teatime in the garage, as adult members of the family smoke.  Tonight, I did not fill like tea or sitting in the smoke, so I stayed in the salon, while all the rest went down for tea.

Selver’s brother and his brother’s family often come to the garage after dinner for a smoke and some tea.

I have included a link to another blog, that explains a different technique for creating flia: https://anoregoncottage.com/making-flia-a-national-dish-of-kosovo/


3 comments:

  1. Love the at home details

    ReplyDelete
  2. The house and food look wonderful 😊

    ReplyDelete
  3. Love hearing about your adventures!

    ReplyDelete

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