Yesterday, we went on an amazing hike with the Kaçanik Hiking Group that they dubbed the "Route to Rome", because of the Roman roads that are found along the trail. The hike was not new, because we did it last week with the group to clean up the trail. What made this hike amazing was the support of hiking groups from around Kosovo, Macedonia, and Albania. They were here to support an important day in Kosovo history, the signing of the constitution here in Kaçanik on September 7th, 1990. So this hike was not about the places we visited, but the people we met, the comradery, and the stories we heard.
Group photo in the main park in Kaçanik
Thom and I are there with our Peace Corps flag (toward the back)
Back in May, we met Ilaz Ramajli, on a hike to Korbliq with Gjethi (blog post of the hike) and I was impressed with the importance that Kaçanik played in that period. For those who lived through that time, the emotion is still very strong. I remember talking with a Peace Corps staff member at the Peace Corps 4th of July celebration about that event and you could hear the emotion in her voice as she talked about the important role that Kaçanik played during that period and how she felt about the signing of the constitution.
On the hike, I met a young lady named Mimoza, which she told me was the name of a flower, not the champaign and orange juice drink. She was born in Kosovo, and her family is from Kaçanik, but she is Canadian now. I hear the tremor in her voice as she told me the story of how her family left Kosovo as refugees in the 90s, first to Macedonia and then to Canada. She was twelve years old and her journey was hard. She couldn't praise Canada more for the support they gave her and her family when they arrived in Canada (article on Kosovar resettlement in Canada). Zekeri, who we met on the hike last week, also told us of his resettlement in Canada and how wonderful the Canadian government was.
Mimoza from Wikimedia Commons photo by
L. Mahin
Mimoza's family arrived in Canada and were placed in a military facility for a month. They were given a choice of Canadian cities to move to. Mimoza appreciated that the Canadian government let them choose which city they wanted to live in. Mimoza's family chose Montreal as her father had worked in France and spoke French. It was hard for Mimoza as she had to learn French in school (and also English), but she praised the Canadians for all they did to welcome her family and support the Kosovars who landed there. Mimoza now lives in Toronto with her husband and 12-year-old daughter. She spoke with emotion about being the same age as her daughter when she went through the traumatic experience of leaving her country and not knowing the fate of those left behind. She is so thankful for the life she was able to giver her daughter.
She told me that while she is Kosovar Albanian and will always love Kosovo, she will never move back. Her home and life is now in Canada. Her visit here this time was very, hard as her father died 5 months ago and was buried here in Kaçanik.
The hiking group estimated that 300 showed up for the event. Our meeting place is typically the Lepenci River Tea Shop across from the old mosque. We were standing on the sidewalk waiting outside the tea shop and we heard two people speaking English and we started talking with them. The woman, Valeria, is from Switzerland. She was married to a man from Kaçanik, but they are now divorced. In Switzerland, she worked for an insurance company in an office and did not like the 9:00 to 5:00 routine. She moved to Kaçanik three years ago (it is less expensive to live here than in Switzerland) and her ex-husband gave her a piece of family property where she has built a house. There are three family houses there and a garden. She helps to maintain the gardens and looks after the houses when the family is gone. Although divorced, she and her husband's family still get along. She was with a member of the Kaçanik hiking group that we had not met before. Isa is a veterinarian here in Kaçanik. Valeria has a cat and is a bit of an animal lover. She often calls Isa to help out with stray injured dogs or cats and she said Av always comes to help. Isa invited her on the hiking trip and I hope she comes again as we need more female hikers.
Lepenci Tea Shop
At the park getting ready to hike
Taking a break on the hill near the UÇK sign
As we walked the unfinished staircase to the UÇK sign we heard two men speaking English and stopped to talk with them. They were with a hiking group from Skopje (Dardana Shkup) and one of the men was Brazilian. He was from the city of Curitiba which is the capital of the state of Parana. Our son was a high school exchange student to Cia Norte in Parana and we visited Curitiba when we went to see him in Brazil. They invited us to join them on one of their hiking trips and we hope to do that in the future.
Hikers on the staircase to Guri i Shpum
Hiking clubs often have club shirts, the orange shirts at the UÇK sign
Walking to the UÇK sign
Later I met another woman from Italy who spoke English and while I was talking with her another lady from Kaçanik joined our conversation. Mimoza was also with us and helped to translate as needed. The woman from Italy was about my age and had a son in a long-distance relationship with a girl from Canada. What a small world we live in with so many interesting connections. The lady from Kaçanik said that she had seen Thom and I walking in the evening and now that we have met she will say "hi" when she sees us.
The lady in the turquoise shirt is Italian, the blue shirts are from the same hiking club.
We always see cows along the trail, when we do the Route to Rome. This hike was no exception. At one point, we saw "the Doctor" (as he is called) from our hiking group and another man going up the hillside off the trail. It was hard to see at first what was going on through the trees; however, as we neared, we saw a cow stuck in a pile of debris at the edge of a ravine. It could not get up and they were trying to help it. Others joined in, but they could not help the cow to stand. Eventually, they were able to roll it on its side and slide it down to the trail. At lunch, we talked with the vet and there was a tag on the cow's ear. He was able to identify and contact the owner to let him know where the cow was and what had happened. We were not sure how long the cow had been stuck and if needed additional attention.
The cow stuck in debris
Unstuck and standing on the trail
At around 1 pm, we heard lively traditional Albanian music as we hiked along the trail. We were close to the picnic area. The Kaçanik Hiking Club were excellent hosts with cold sodas and water available as soon as we arrived. The hiking group had arranged for plastic chairs and tables to be delivered,
as there is an access road to the picnic spot.
The different hiking groups hung up their banners and found seating together, and then the party began with
music from speakers and a guest singer, Osman Shehu. Resting points for hikes, often include music and sometimes dancing. This time it included seating as well. Lunch was catered by Albini catering (we have often seen their little truck/van around town) and I am happy to say sustainably on real plates with metal utensils. It was a traditional meal with three meats, rice, salad, and lots of bread. They were glad to serve me a plate of rice and salad.
Lunch is served
Some of the club banners in the back and a large trash bag to collect the trash
We all received metal utensils for lunch
The boy in black is a student I met last May; he is Buki's grandson
The dancing has begun
After lunch, there were several speakers including Ilaz Ramajli, who spoke about the signing of the constitution on September 7, 1990. We also received a certificate and commemorative hiking shirts. The word "Mirënjohje" translates to both acknowledgment and gratefulness. It was in acknowledgment and gratefulness "for the continuous engagement in the protection of the environment as well as participation in the activity "Route of Rome 2024" in honor of the Constitution of Kaçanik". This was a wonderful surprise acknowledgment.
We each received a commemorative hiking shirt of the event
After each participating club received certificates and a few t-shirts, there was a bit of dancing before the groups headed out on the hike back into Kaçanik; and their cars and buses waiting there. We stayed and helped the group clean up while Osman Shehu did a little impromptu concert and then we headed back with part of the hiking group. The main organizers from the club, stayed behind to wait for the trucks that were picking up the chairs and tables; and most importantly to make sure the bags of garbage were taken out as well. I am proud to say, we left the picnic area cleaner than we found it.
The caterers preparing the plates.
Additional notes:
I was curious as to the USA's role in the resettlement Kosovars as well and found this article produced by the University of California - Davis: Kosovar Refugees. It references the many countries that helped to take refugees during that period.
This is a song that is sung on many of our hiking trips. It is always sung with much gusto.
Lyrics Ushton Gryka E Kaçanikut
Ushton gryka e Kaçanikut
Morën zjarr këta gur’t e malit.
I: Përmbi çallmat e Anadollit
Ndizen hutat e shqiptarit! :I
Ref.:
I: Hej Kaçanik o shkamb e gur
Vritesh e pritesh për flamur!
Për flamurin e Skenderit
Luftojnë djemt’ e Idriz o Seferit! :I
Kurr nuk çarten o kullat tona
Vendit tonë i dalim zot.
Tirq e zhguna e xhubleta
Thurr i kemi o me barot.
Ref.:
Hej…
Sulen trimat nga Kabashi,
Nga Lubizhda e Stagova.
Th’rret me t’madhe Dërgut Pasha:
- Ndihmë Sulltan se sot marova!
Ref.:
Hej …
Rough translation from Google:
The gorge of Kaçanik is fed,
These mountain stones caught fire.
I: Over the turbans of Anatolia
The Albanians are confused! :I
Ref.:
I: Hey Kaçanik, rock and stone
Kill and wait for the flag!
For the flag of Skender
The sons of Idriz o Sefer fight! :I
Our towers never crack
God bless our country.
Tirq and Zhguna and Jubleta
We have knitted them or with the barot.
Ref.:
hey…
The brave from Kabashi attack,
From Lubizhda e Stagova.
With the greatest greetings to Dërgut Pasha:
- Help the Sultan, because today I died!
Ref.:
hey…
A little bit of history I found on the song: The Kaçanik Gorge is historic and this song is about the place of battle between Albanians and Ottomans Skanderberg = (also Skenderbeu an Albanian military leader in 15th century who fought against Ottomans). Idriz
Seferi was Albanian nationalist figure and rebel in Albanian Revolts and Balkan
wars. The chorus of a song is called Ushton Gryka e Kaçanikut (the
Gorge of Kaçanik). It is an Albanian song inspired by the many battles fought
in Gorge of Kaçanik throughout the centuries, where during the Ottoman rule
Albanians fought for their country. Some of the lyrics are based on the older
song Shqipëri o shkëmb e gur (Albania of Rock and Stone).
To listen to Osman Shehu recording of the song Gryget Kaçaniku or search for "Kaçaniku" on Spotify.
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