Tuesday, May 13, 2025

Our Visit with Matthew and Betsy (Part One)...

On Wednesday (April 30th), after my return from Kamenice, I headed to Ferizaj to catch the 10:30 am bus to North Macedonia to meet up with Thom, my son, Matthew, and his girlfriend, Betsy.  It was a beautiful, sunny day, and the bus ride was great.  When we reached North Macedonia's border, all the passengers exited the bus and stood in line to present our IDs to border control.  

At the bus station, I found out the next available bus was at 6:30 pm, the earlier bus that I plan to take, that I thought I could take, was full, so I had hours to kill.  I found a really nice vegan restaurant for lunch, and then I walked around for several hours.   I finally made it to Lake Ohrid at 10 pm after a 2 1/2 hour bus ride.  Matthew and Betsy met me at the bus station, and then we walked back to our apartment in the old city center.  It was so good to see them and we had a nice walk back catching up along the way.  It was in a really old but nicely renovated building.  

Photos -- Killing Time in Skopje

Church across from the bus station in Skopje

My vegan lunch at Paradise Foods in Skopje -- Vegan Borsht and Salad

Statue by the Varda River

A ship restaurant and hotel

Artistic bridge and lamppost over the Varda River

The next morning, after a good breakfast, we took a meandering walk up to the fortress.  Lake Ohrid is one of Europe's deepest lakes; on this day, it was beautiful and blue.  On the way to the fortress, we saw many churches, as in Ohrid, there was a church for every day of the year.  These churches range in size and are very old.  We stopped in the courtyard of one of these churches as we made our way to the ancient theater of Ohrid. 

Beautiful old mosque in Ohrid

The walkway near our Air B and B in the old city

Beautiful blue Lake Ohrid

A view from the waterfront

One of the many swans

An old VW van along the way

A view of the fortress from a distance

Church courtyard


The theater was built in the Hellenistic Period (323 bc to 30 bc) and was used by the Romans to host gladiator fights and public executions.  After exploring the theater, we continue on to Tsar Samuel's Fortress, which was built in the 11th century and was the first capital of the Bulgarian Empire.  It is possible this fortress was built over the site of a 4th bc fortress by King Philip I of Macedon.  The fortress was recently restored (2023) and along with the lake and the old city center, is a highlight of Ohrid.

The ancient theater

Another view of the theater

The fortress, blue skies and puffy clouds

A large North Macedonia flag waves over the fortress

View of Ohrid from the fortress

Another view of Ohrid from the fortress

Fortress wall and turret

Another view of the flag and the city

We continued on past an old university and on to the picturesque St. John of Kaneo Church, which sits on a cliff overlooking the lake.  The church's fountain offered us a chance to refill our water bottles before we made our way to a boardwalk along the lake.  Eventually, we found a store and grabbed cheese, hummus, olives, and bread to have for lunch.

The university site is in conflict with UNESCO World Heritage

Gate to Hilltop University

Ruins found at the planned site of the university, excavation site

Uncovered ruins are protected


Interesting lanterns in Ohrid, Polish flag and nice house

St. John's of Kaneo Church

The view walking to Kaneo

After our lunch, we rented paddleboards and paddled around the lake for an hour.  It was a nice day out, but the water was cold and I did not want to go in.  Matthew, however, took a quick swim off his paddleboard and confirmed that it was too cold for me.  We spent the evening in the old city center with dinner and a walk.


View from the paddleboard

Knee-boarding so I don't fall in

Paddleboarding on Lake Ohrid

Rockface along the boardwalk on the lake

Matthew and Betsy on the boardwalk in Ohrid

Steps to our accomodation

Nightview of Ohrid

On Friday, we headed to Skopje for the afternoon.  We walked to the city center and had lunch at the Mexican restaurant.  We saw the main square, the bazaar, and the fortress.  Around 5 pm, we met Valon and Sami for a light dinner and a beer.  Valon and Sami had graciously offered to pick up Thom, Matthew, Betsy, and me to bring us to Kaçanik.  It was nice for Thom to catch up and for them to meet Matthew and Betsy.  We arrived Friday evening to Kaçanik and made plans to hike with our hiking group on Saturday on a hike to Jazhince in the Sharr National Park.  As the hike started at 7:30 am, we didn't do much except to get settled when we arrived in Kaçanik.

Lunch at Amigas in Skopje

Near the old bridge



Mosque in Skopje

The fortress in Skopje

Sculpture in the fortress

The weather was beautiful for the hike on Saturday, and we had a good group.  Our van was full.  Everyone welcomed Matthew and Betsy, and we really enjoyed most of the hike.  There was still some snow on the trail in places, and it was really slippery.  At one point, one of the high school girls slipped, and our fearless leader, Enis, grabbed her, and they both ended up sliding down a long slope.  After that, we were all very careful, and most of our group made it to the lake.  The lake still had ice on it and it was very pretty, as were the multitude of flowers.  I think Matthew and Betsy enjoyed the hike and the hiking group.

Photos from the hike












Our group at the beginning of the hike

Our group at the end of the hike

The next day, Betsy and Matthew went out for coffee.  They saw Fatmir from the hike and he took them for burek.  After that, they went to Sherif's (also from the hike) for coffee.  After they came back, we had the grand tour of Kaçanik, including the UÇK sign, the Illyrian Wall, and the erosion staircase.  We had almost traditional bean soup, ayvar burek, and salad for dinner at the apartment.  After dinner, we met Sami, Valon, Remzi, and Remzi's brother for drinks at the newly remodelled Riverside Restaurant.  We had a nice evening with good friends and conversation.

Kaçanik from the UÇK sign



From the tour of Bonevet

My Mother's Day bouquet and card

View of Kaçanik from our walk


From the tour of Bonevet

Monday, I went to school for my two morning classes.  Gazmend was gone as he was still driving back from Germany.  Thom, Betsy, and Matthew met Mirvete and me at school.  We went to Trofta for coffee and conversation.  After coffee, we walked to Bonevet for a tour of the STEAM academy from Elise. Mirvete offered to take us out to Guri i Zi after she was done at school, so we had an early, relaxing dinner at Guri i Zi.  It was nice that Matthew and Betsy were able to meet so many of our friends here.


Matthew and Betsy at Guri i Zi

Tuesday, we were planning to take the bus to Ferizaj and then on to Prishtina.  I needed to get my photo and fingerprints for my new residence card as well, so it was convenient.  We found out that Mirvete was going to Prishtina and she offered to pick us up and drive us, so we didn't end up taking the bus.  Mirvete parked close to the Peace Corps Office, so we walked there as soon as we got to Prishtina.  We all had backpacks as we were going on tour to Peja, Prizren, and then Albania.  We left our packs at the Peace Corps office and then went to the Mother Teresa Cathedral.  We went up in the tower for a better view of Prishtina. 

Mother Teresa Cathedral in Prishtina

Stained glass windows

Inside the sanctuary

The view from the tower -- Prishtina Library in center, church left up from center

Another view from the tower

The tower from the tower
 

We were able to have lunch with Addie and Birgit (our response volunteers).  Addie is getting ready to leave, while Birgit has just arrived.  We enjoyed a wonderful lunch at Babaghanoush (our favorite vegan restaurant).  After lunch, I got my residency card taken care of while Matthew, Thom, and Betsy got a tour of the Biology building on the campus of Prishtina University.  I met up with them and we finished with a walk by the Newborn Monument and the library before catching a 4 pm train to Peja.

The Newborn Monument in Prishtina

Route 66 Diner next to Newborn

Women heros sculpture across from Newborn


View of the library

Dancer for the celebration in Prishtina



Taking the train to Peja

Stay tuned for Part Two of our visits, as this is already a long blog and there is so much more to say.



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